Rachel van Le Coffee Ride Tackles a Volcano During a Bikepacking Trip in Sicily: “We Could Only See a Few Meters Ahead Among the Lava Rocks”
When you think of Sicily, images of Mount Etna, arancini, or the Trinacria symbol might come to mind, but rarely cycling. However, the lunar landscape around the volcano offers a fantastic terrain for adventurous gravel bikers. When we heard that Rachel Cornet from Le Coffee Ride ventured out in November with her friend Anne to tackle a variation of the Sicily Divide, we were eager to hear about her experiences. “Climbing Monte Soro in dense fog was a truly unique experience,” she enthusiastically recounts.
The Sicily Divide has rapidly gained popularity in recent years and takes gravel bikers from the west to the east of the island of citrus groves. Along the way, you pass through small Italian villages and traverse remote trails and muddy tracks in the shadow of Europe’s most active volcano, also known locally as Mongibello. Several routes exist for the Sicily Divide, each approximately 460 kilometers long and with a total ascent of 9,000 meters.
“We absolutely wanted to soak up some vitamin C before the end of 2024,” Rachel smiles when asked why they chose this trip. “I was craving adventure, so gravel biking quickly became the obvious choice. We debated for a long time between gravel paradises like Andalusia, Portugal, and Sicily. The stories about the latter were so compelling that we opted for a variation of that route. Of course, it also helps when Italian pasta is on the menu!”
The Sicily Divide has rapidly gained popularity in recent years and takes gravel bikers from the west to the east of the island of citrus groves. Along the way, you pass through small Italian villages and traverse remote trails and muddy tracks in the shadow of Europe’s most active volcano, also known locally as Mongibello. Several routes exist for the Sicily Divide, each approximately 460 kilometers long and with a total ascent of 9,000 meters.
“We absolutely wanted to soak up some vitamin C before the end of 2024,” Rachel smiles when asked why they chose this trip. “I was craving adventure, so gravel biking quickly became the obvious choice. We debated for a long time between gravel paradises like Andalusia, Portugal, and Sicily. The stories about the latter were so compelling that we opted for a variation of that route. Of course, it also helps when Italian pasta is on the menu!”
True tifosi revere the Maglia Ciclamino, the iconic points jersey in the Giro d’Italia. Rachel configured her Eddy Merckx Strasbourg in the same color, unintentionally paying homage to Italy’s national cycling race. Naturally, she put careful thought into customizing her workhorse. “I’m not very tall and was glad I could mount an extra bottle cage under my frame. That way, I could use the bottle cage on the down tube for my frame bag.”
“Usually, I only use a saddlebag and handlebar bag, but in November, you need a bit more. Extra layers are essential, both on the bike and for when the Sicilian sun sets. This frame bag allowed me to carry extra gear. The Strasbourg has many handy mounting points, although the straps on these bags already worked well. Still, those screws are invaluable if you want to carry heavier camping gear. Since we stayed in B&Bs or hotels, we didn’t go all out.”
“Usually, I only use a saddlebag and handlebar bag, but in November, you need a bit more. Extra layers are essential, both on the bike and for when the Sicilian sun sets. This frame bag allowed me to carry extra gear. The Strasbourg has many handy mounting points, although the straps on these bags already worked well. Still, those screws are invaluable if you want to carry heavier camping gear. Since we stayed in B&Bs or hotels, we didn’t go all out.”
What’s Inside Rachel’s Bike Bags?
“We each packed two cycling outfits and one sporty off-bike outfit, including shoes. We kept toiletries to a minimum and brought a few charging cables. There was also space for food along the way and a bit of tools. From home, I brought some energy bars and sports drinks, although we had to restock these during the trip. You always think you’ll need a lot of stuff, but it usually works out. Anything essential can always be purchased. For ‘light adventure,’ the bike bags from Le Coffee Ride are perfect.”
On Foot at Mount Etna
Equipped with her 45-millimeter Pirelli Cinturato tires, Rachel almost maxed out her Strasbourg’s 48-millimeter tire clearance. “I started gravel biking just over a year ago, so my endurance outpaces my technical skills. That’s why I opt for relatively wide tires, which also provide extra comfort. Especially when riding long days with bike bags, that’s no luxury. We rode tubeless and managed to go the entire week without a flat tire.”
The cycling mom planned the route with Komoot, splitting their variation of the Sicily Divide into five stages, each similar in distance and elevation gain. “Things worked a bit differently than back home. What we consider paved roads in Belgium is gravel in Sicily, and what they call gravel would be classified as mountain biking for us. Additionally, floods in recent years have caused significant damage, so we had to take detours occasionally. For my next adventure, I’ll use Google Earth to study the roads more thoroughly. Compared to the Divide, we didn’t ride from one side of the island to the other. Instead, we flew into Catania and did a loop from Catania to Etna Park and Nebrodi Park before returning to Catania.”
The cycling mom planned the route with Komoot, splitting their variation of the Sicily Divide into five stages, each similar in distance and elevation gain. “Things worked a bit differently than back home. What we consider paved roads in Belgium is gravel in Sicily, and what they call gravel would be classified as mountain biking for us. Additionally, floods in recent years have caused significant damage, so we had to take detours occasionally. For my next adventure, I’ll use Google Earth to study the roads more thoroughly. Compared to the Divide, we didn’t ride from one side of the island to the other. Instead, we flew into Catania and did a loop from Catania to Etna Park and Nebrodi Park before returning to Catania.”
Etna Park was, of course, a key destination on their map. “We entered via the western section on tarmac. After following an old dirt road, we ended up on black sand and rocks, which were impossible to ride on. A shortcut through the lava rocks wasn’t feasible, so we had to hike for a bit, which we didn’t enjoy. Unfortunately, it was very misty on Etna, so we couldn’t admire the valley views during the climb.”
“Between the ash valleys, Etna offers a unique experience, but I have another recommendation for those following in our footsteps. The highest point of our trip was Monte Soro (1,847 meters), where we climbed through the fog alongside cows. On a sunny day, it would be stunning, but we could only see a few meters ahead. Still, it was a special experience. During the descent after the seemingly endless climb, the temperature rose again, the fog disappeared, and an hour later, we were eating at the beach and planning a full recovery day.”
A symbolic nod to the gravel lifestyle: when the mist lifts, so do your worries. Have you noticed how the sun shines brighter when the smoke around your head fades away?
“Between the ash valleys, Etna offers a unique experience, but I have another recommendation for those following in our footsteps. The highest point of our trip was Monte Soro (1,847 meters), where we climbed through the fog alongside cows. On a sunny day, it would be stunning, but we could only see a few meters ahead. Still, it was a special experience. During the descent after the seemingly endless climb, the temperature rose again, the fog disappeared, and an hour later, we were eating at the beach and planning a full recovery day.”
A symbolic nod to the gravel lifestyle: when the mist lifts, so do your worries. Have you noticed how the sun shines brighter when the smoke around your head fades away?
